Dispatches From the Parks: Tonto National Monument
During my southwestern trip last spring most of my travels dealt with western Arizona and the many Sinagua culture sites that are still preserved there. However, I concluded my trip with a journey to Phoenix and central Arizona and it is there that an immense monument to the Salado people is located in the form of Tonto National Monument. The journey to Tonto National Monument from the north is quite the trip. The transitions between landscapes are stark as you go from the red rocks of Sedona to the pine filled forest of the upper elevations to the stereotypical, saguaro-filled desert landscapes of Arizona. It’s in the later that Tonto National Monument is located, right on the ridge above the stunning Roosevelt Lake. It’s a beautiful journey that previews what you get to see at the monument.
Tonto National Monument preserves multiple dwellings of the Salado people, which inhabited the area from the 13th through 15th centuries. Other than Montezuma Castle, a lot of the Sinagua structures are built directly into the landscape, giving a very natural feel. These structures can at times be hard to notice. That’s not the case of the Salado structures of Tonto National Monument, which, while still built into the natural landscape, have features that resemble more of a closed off and built up structure. You begin your journey into Tonto National Monument by driving up into the mountains above Roosevelt Lake. I happened to visit this park during the spring so the wildflower bloom at the time made this a colorful drive. The immense saguaro cactuses all over the area also added to the distinctive look on the sides of the road to the visitor center. The visitor center serves as the contact station where you pay your entrance fee and continue onto the hike to the lower cliff dwellings. If you want to visit the upper cliff dwellings you have to reserve a tour with a park ranger in advance. The visitor center also has a nice gift shop, and, to make the visitor center more distinctive, an outdoor theater to play the park movie.
The trail to the lower cliff dwellings is all uphill with a few switchbacks to save your legs and lungs. There is no need to rush as the views are incredible. You can look straight into the blue water of Lake Roosevelt from here or you can look to the sides of the trail to see vibrant California poppies or purple owl’s clovers (as well as numerous other wildflowers). If you look up you can see incredible rock structures that also house the Salado structures. Numerous wayside exhibits on the way up the trail explain the area’s history from the Salado culture and daily lifestyle all the way to Theodore Roosevelt’s actions to preserve the area. Finally, the trail ends at the main cliff dwelling, which you can actually walk through with the aid of a park volunteer or ranger. It’s surprising how well preserved this area is considering there is still a lot of foot traffic that goes through it.
Tonto National Monument preserves a beautiful area that highlights the best parts of Arizona.
